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A copper pot is filled with a custard so golden it looks like liquid sunshine. An attendant spoonfully serves the sweet, yolky concoction, known as *zabaglione*, into bowls for dunking warm *pansarole* pastries. Conversation halts, a quiet race to secure the final one. It feels like genuinely living *la dolce vita*.

This sweet treat is a local custom in the village of Apricale, a storybook village in Liguria, Italy's crescent-shaped region that embraces the Mediterranean Sea. It's a far cry from the crowded Five Lands and luxurious Portofino to the south-east. This western part, on the southern border with neighboring France, feels more authentic and calmer in the winter, with more local people than visitors. Released from fighting for reservations, you are free to be in the moment. Let whim be your director – or, in our family's instance, our appetites.

A Familial Journey Inspired by Love for Italian Cuisine

I ventured to Liguria with my sister, her partner, and their 11- and 14-year-old kids, spurred on by my sister's studies in Italy and our shared passion for the country's comforting, family-friendly food. Our driving tour wound from the coastal Flower Riviera to a cluster of historic mountain villages. In just a compact region, we stepped into the past.

An ex-partner had taken me to Liguria one January. Though it was wet, the alpine ranges block the wind, creating a microclimate with moderate temperatures that are typically 13C. Our December trip was bathed in the most sublime winter light, perfect for outdoor dining.

Ventimiglia: A Place Suspended Between Sea and Sky

Heading east from Nice, the road is marked by a series of breathtaking curves and underground passages. Our first stop was a brief journey away, just over the frontier. Ventimiglia is split into two parts: the lively new town and the historical hilltop quarter, suspended between sea and sky. On a terrace bathed in light, we enjoyed fried calamari alongside views of the sea. The kids pretended to be pirates in front of a figure of the Black Corsair, the hero of a famous pirate story.

We entered the winding maze of the old town via the ancient Porta Nizza arch. Laundry draped from pastel facades, their characterful aging born from centuries of wear. Two places of worship on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi have fascinating details: the hyperrealistic *Cristo Morto* (statue) and an old baptistery basin.

We explored the winding maze of the ancient quarter where washing was draped over colorful buildings, their character from age resulting from centuries of wear.

A Riverside Gem: Stone Alleys and a Famous Bridge

Back in the car, we traveled 20 minutes north to the village by the river of Dolceacqua. An impromptu search for "accommodation with baths" led us to a charming historic lodging set in the old neighborhood. Its rustic rooms are contrasted with contemporary jacuzzis. The medieval historic sector sits across the Nervia river via the picturesque ancient bridge that the painter Monet captured in paintings, as shown by a wooden cut-out of him by the riverside.

On a narrow street, the children felt "enveloped by the ancient houses" that tilted toward each other. We walked up the tight Ligurian *caruggi* (lanes) to the Castello dei Doria. The seat of a powerful dynasty from the 12th-17th centuries, Dolceacqua's historic landmark is now an atmospheric ruin of soaring arches, a living history that is perfect for hide and seek.

Back in town for aperitivo, every cocktail came with a free plate of bites – "How it should be," noted a family member. Our server at a local restaurant told us confidently: "All the dishes are wonderful. If you aren't pleased, it's on me." We tucked into area classics: *trofie* (curly) pasta with pesto, potatoes and green beans, and *barbajuan* (vegetable and cheese-filled) fritters. All paired with Rossese di Dolceacqua, an robust red that's rarely exported due to the steep, terraced vineyard's limited output.

The Artists' Town: Gravity-Defying Charm

The following day, we motored 15 minutes north-east to one of "the most beautiful villages in Italy", Apricale. The red-roofed village is plastered on lush hillsides, seemingly defying gravity. Known as an creative hub, Apricale's maze-like streets are adorned with murals. We got a solitary viewing, with local cats the only movement on the empty streets.

The main piazza, the piazza, is framed by two pink churches and the renovated 10th-century Lizard Castle, whose underground prison transported us to the medieval times. As did the similarly stone-arched dining room at a local ristorante, where we half expected the waiter to carve the roast with a blade. The place of the celebrated sweet custard also serves robust *coniglio* (local rabbit) and pork stew with polenta and *farinata* (savory pancake). On the way back to the hotel, we popped into Perinaldo, another idyllic spot, for a leisurely evening stroll – the customary gentle amble.

Sanremo

Back on the coast, the city of Sanremo felt like a busy city compared with the hilltop hamlets. The city of over fifty thousand became a popular destination in the Victorian era, when wealthy Europeans, particularly English travelers, decamped to the Mediterranean for its curative winter climate. Ornate historic grand hotels, gaming houses and villas are testaments to this era, their aging elegance like a actress in her later years.

The city's Mercato Annonario was full of gargantuan cheese wheels, {cured meats|salamis|prosci